In the heart of beautiful Black Perigord, where the first European humans emerged, the old city of Sarlat -la-Caneda,( Sarlat, as it is called) takes the visitor to an enchanting trip in the past. Renowned for having the largest number of listed historical monuments in Europe, its birth dates back to the Viking era, in the 9th century.
Legend has it that in order to escape the constant raids of the terrible conquerors, the inhabitants of the region sought refuge by moving away from the Dordogne River to this remote valley. They placed themselves under the protection of the Benedictine monks, whose abbey became the center of a growing village. In 1153, the seigneury was placed under the direct authority of the Pope, providing the town stability and prosperity. Three centuries later, the abbey became a cathedral, and its architectural transformation kept going on for centuries till the end of 17th century.
At the end of the 12th century, Sarlat was an important commercial crossroads at the border of the 2 kingdoms of France and England. But the black plague killed one third of its 5000 souls in only a few days.
But it regained vividness, and, well protected by the heavy walls of its fortress, played a major role during the Hundred Years War: a very important base for soldiers, ammunition and supplies, it helped and was helped by other castles during several sieges. Once defeated, it briefly became an English city in1360. Ten years later, it paid allegiance to the Kingdom of France, was saved by the famous French hero Connétable Du Guesclin, and became French.
With the post war times came the reward: the King of France, Charles VII, allotted to the city funds to reinforce the fortress, and modernize habitat. The new town emerged, with its lot of mansions made of a golden colour stone, built in the new French Renaissance style.
Those were years of peace and prosperity for the region, before the Religion wars brought desolation one more time. In the beginning of 18th century, due to its geographic isolation, Sarlat slowly fell asleep, until 40 years ago it was brought back to life through major restorations.
Today, the capital of “Perigord Noir”, despite 1.5 million visitors a year, has managed to keep its authentic character, not only in the architecture but also in the atmosphere: for a taste of the real French way of life, go to the market on a Saturday morning. Then wander through the medieval streets, with the help of a walking map. And try it by night: the illuminations will leave you …illuminated. You will understand why 80 movies have chosen the town as a backdrop. This is THE place to sit back at a terrace and enjoy the best foie gras. A taste of wonder!
But Sarlat is not the only medieval town in the area: another breathtaking site is Rocamadour. Perched on a cliff overlooking the Alzou River canyon, it dominates the region, and has several levels. A single street crosses the medieval village. You can access the religious area through a staircase or an elevator: several churches were built over the years, one of them being worldwide famous for the miracles dedicated to the sailor men. Don’t expect to be on your own, though: Rocamadour is the most visited site in France after the Mont Saint Michel.